|
Here
we offer some interesting stories that we have posted
on our Facebook and Instagram accounts:
|
|
Article
Title:
|
Page:
|
Charging
lithium-ion batteries via the alternator – what
are my options?
|
|
How
do I decide – a Victron or Xantrex inverter-charger?
|
|
Performance
and Lifespan of the Industry Leading Lithionics
Battery Lithium-ion Battery Systems
|
|
What
is the “BMS” or Battery Management System?
|
|
Lithionics
Battery Wiring Diagrams
|
|
What
are the top reasons to upgrade from lead-acid or
AGM batteries to Lithionics lithium-ion batteries?
|
|
What
is the best way to wire my RV or Boat's solar panels:
Series or Parallel?
|
|
|
What
is the best way to wire my RV or Boat’s solar panels:
Series or Parallel? - posted July 14, 2024
|
Well,
the answer is that it really depends on the following
factors:
-
What Voltage your battery system is.
-
What output Voltage each solar panel produces.
-
What
the maximum “Series connection Voltage” is for your
solar panels (see manufacturer’s specs).
-
How
many solar panels in the system (we assume they are
all identical specification) and how many MPPT solar
charge controllers that you want to use.
-
Are
there any obstructions on the roof such as air conditioners
or a sailboat mast that could cause some shading?
-
What are the sunlight conditions where your RV or
boat will be most of the time? Are there trees or
anything that could cause partial shading?
In
most cases with smaller solar panels (200 Watts or less)
I will suggest using at least two solar panels and wiring
them in Series so that their combined output Voltage will
be as high as possible so that in most situations, the
MPPT solar charge controller will be able to engage. For
example, most 100 to 110 watt solar panels only produce
up to about 19.6 Volts under peak conditions. If you have
a 12 Volt battery system it probably needs to charge around
14.4 Volts and as most MPPT solar charge controllers need
to see at least + 5 Volts higher than the charge Voltage
to initiate, a 19.6 Volt solar panel is not going to have
enough direct sun on it to get the 19.6 Volts much of
the time. If we wire the two solar panels in Series the
combined maximum Voltage output will be 39.2 Volts and
even under partially cloudy or lower light conditions
they will still likely be above 20 Volts so they will
actually be able to charge the battery under a much wider
range of conditions. Be sure to check the maximum Series
connection rating for your solar panels – The SunPower
100 Watt semi-flexible solar panels can only be Series
wired up to 48 Volts but others like the Go Power 100
Watt semi-flexible solar panels can be Series wired up
to 600 Volts (many more panels than two).
Unfortunately
many RV Manufacturers will "cut corners" and/ or use low
quality products (and materials in many cases - such as
the use of non-tinned copper wiring and wiring of smaller
gauges than we'd like to see) to either maximize their
profits or else to help keep the final sticker price down.
I have found that this is particularly common when it
comes to factory equipped/ factory installed solar equipment.
In almost all cases the factory uses the cheaper/ non-programmable/
lower efficiency PWM style solar charge controllers which
may be OK for use with the factory installed AGM house
batteries but we certainly cannot use them when we upgrade
to Lithionics lithium-ion batteries - primarily because
we cannot custom program the Bulk Charge and Float Charge
Voltage settings to those figures needed for use with
the Lithionics batteries. So when the RV comes to me with
a PWM controller (Pulse Width Modulation) or even a lower
quality MPPT solar charge controller (Multi Power Point
Tracking) I always have to replace it with a far superior
MPPT solar charge controller like those made by Victron
Energy. I feel bad for my Clients because essentially
they paid for this original low quality product that unfortunately
we cannot use. Not only are the Victron MPPTs affordable
and easy to custom program but they can capture up to
30% more solar power versus the simpler PWM type solar
charge controllers.
In
addition, I've found that most RV Manufacturers don't
really understand the best/ most optimal way to wire up
the actual solar panels. Typically I find that they are
always wired in Series - which would not necessarily be
a problem if the actual solar panels themselves had a
base output Voltage of at least 25 Volts. However, most
of the time the RV Manufacturer has installed the smaller
100 Watt to 200 Watt semi-flexible solar panels which
may only be able to produce a maximum of 20 Volts DC under
peak/ ideal sun conditions. As mentioned, the problem
with this is that the MPPT solar charge controllers typically
need to see at least 4 Volts or 5 Volts higher coming
in from the solar panels themselves than the bulk charge
setting that we program in to the MPPT for the MPPT to
be able to start up and actually charge the batteries.
So for the Lithionics 12 Volt batteries, we always set
the MPPT's bulk charge Voltage at 14.4 Volts (sometimes
we bump this up to a maximum of 14.59 Volts) so if the
MPPT needs 5 Volts higher than 14.4 Volts, this works
out to 19.4 Volts needed just to get the MPPT to turn
on. If the maximum Voltage that the solar panel can produce
is 20 Volts, this means that when there are only slightly
less than absolutely ideal sun conditions (middle of Summer,
midday sun with no clouds) chances are the solar panels
will not produce a high enough Voltage to get the MPPT
to turn on and will not perform any bulk charging. So
this means that both early and late in the day when the
Sun is lower in the sky, if there is a wee bit of shade
on part of the panel, if there is a bit of dirt on the
solar panels or if there is any cloud in the sky chances
are that you will not get much if any solar charging when
the solar panels are wired in Parallel.
So
when we have a "clean slate" for everything - like the
solar, we can plan out and execute the installation in
a way that will perform at the absolute peak that its
capable of. In the case of these 20 Volt solar panels,
we will always recommend that if we have just 2 of them
that we will wire them in Series so that in almost all
daytime conditions, the combined Voltage of the two solar
panels will almost always be above 20 or even 25 Volts
- permitting the MPPT to go into the bulk charging mode
even early/ late in the day, under cloud or part shading
and even when it is raining!
Yes, on a May 2024 solar only upgrade RV project (a Leisure
Travel Van/ Sprinter Chassis), the Client had AGM batteries
and just two of the Go Power 100 Watt semi-flexible solar
panels and a cheap PWM solar charge controller from Go
Power as standard equipment. The RV factory had wired
these in Parallel and the Client found that very rarely
would he ever get any solar charging. After Pinnacle Innovations
rewired them in Series, added a Victron Smart MPPT and
added the proper DC circuit breakers, the Client found
that this made a whole World of difference! In fact, while
the Client was here picking up the RV mid-afternoon I
showed him on the Victron Bluetooth App the new MPPT and
much to his amazement his batteries were actually charging
in bulk mode with almost 7 Amps going in. The amazing
thing is that the Sun was nowhere to be seen - it was
actually fully overcast AND RAINING at the time! Under
peak direct sunlight the maximum Amps these two panels
can produce at the bulk charge Voltage would be 13.88
Amps - so almost 7 Amps is pretty good while raining.
I can guarantee that when the solar panels were wired
up the original way that under these conditions there
would be zero charging going on...
A week later he followed up with me and thanked me - stating
that the solar is now able to fully recharge his two small
batteries each day and he is no longer having to charge
them everyday with shore power - which is what he was
forced to do every day for the past 3 years. His Son (whom
also has a very similar RV that I installed an MPPT on
in 2021) was so impressed that he decided to call me and
have me rewire his Go Power 100 Watt semi-flexible solar
panels in Series (as well as Parallel as he has four panels
- not two). At the time I initially installed his MPPT
I had recommended that I also rewire his solar panels
that were factory installed by Leisure Travel Vans strictly
in Parallel but at the time he was not convinced it was
worthwhile. After witnessing the huge improvements in
his Dad's almost identical solar system, he called me
up and came in to have me also wire his solar panels in
Series. As he has 4 panels, what I do is wire two together
in Series, wire the other two in Series and then Parallel
connect the 2 sets of 2 wires coming from each set of
2 solar panels. This way we combat the effects of both
shading of one side of the RV as well as lower sunlight
conditions to offer the maximum capability for solar charging.
Now
if your solar panels are capable of producing lets say
25 Volts to 48 Volts or higher (typically larger solar
panels up to 500 Watts) and you have several panels and
there are likely to be things that cause shading on parts
of the roof (a sailboat mast, trees, air conditioner etc.)
then chances are that I will recommend either wiring the
solar panels in Parallel to one MPPT solar charge controller
or if budget is not a concern, ideally wire the solar
panels individually to their own MPPT solar charge controller.
This way when one panel is shaded the other one can be
charging.
Just remember that in order to capitalize the most on
solar power we want the solar panel system’s output Voltage
to be a minimum of lets say 6 to 10 Volts higher than
that of your battery system – otherwise the MPPT solar
charge controller will only activate during peak mid-day
sunshine. By wiring the solar panels in Series we can
get solar charging happening during many more conditions
– including early/ late day and when clouds are present.
However if shading is likely to be a problem then we may
prefer to wire the panels in Parallel or Series-Parallel
if you have several solar panels. In many cases, the use
of multiple MPPTs can increase the amount of solar harvested
– especially when shading or partial shading is present.
If you’d like us to do a no pressure evaluation of your
solar system we’d be happy to do so. We will look at everything
that connects to the solar and battery system so that
we are certain to offer you exactly what is needed. Feel
free to visit our website at https://www.getlithium.com
where you can find out more including the pricing of the
Lithionics systems and you can Contact
Us by phone or by email on our Contact Us page at: https://www.getlithium.com/12-Contact-Us.html
Some
images with page links referencing this article:
|
|
|
Web Site Navigation
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
~ Deep Cycle
Lithium
~ Engine Cranking
Lithium
Batteries
~ RV Lithium
Batteries
~ Marine Lithium
Batteries
~ Large Scale
Lithium-ion
Batteries
~ Solar Power
Lithium
Batteries
~ Truck Industry
Lithium
Batteries
|
~ Lithionics
Battery
NeverDie BMS
~ Dual Channel
BMS
~ State of Charge
Monitoring
Systems (SOC)
~ CANbus
Controls
~ Alternator
Controls |
~ Sailboat/ Yacht
Inboard &
Outboard
Electric
motors
~ 5hp, 9.9hp, 14hp,
20hp, 30hp &
50hp electric
outboard boat
motors
~ 6hp, 12hp, 20hp,
40hp, 70hp and
100hp electric
inboard boat
motors
~ Lithium-ion
and Victron
Energy AGM
Batteries |
~ Sailboats
~ Ski Boats
~ Bass Boats
~ Sport
Cruisers
~ Offshore
Racing
Boats
~ Yachts
~ High Output
Alternators
with
External
Wakespeed
or Balmar
Voltage
Regulators |
~ Class A, B & C
Recreational
Vehicle Lithium-ion
Batteries
~ Mercedes Benz
Sprinter Van
Lithium-ion
Batteries
~ Deep Cycle &
Engine Cranking
Lithium-ion
Battery Systems
~ High Output
Alternators with
External
Wakespeed
or Balmar Voltage
Regulators
|
|
|
|